Aging On The Vine: 10 questions for Philip Goodband MW

May 28, 2023

10 questions for Philip Goodband MW

My friend Raef and I signed up for the Vintage Wine Tour of Bordeaux. We spent a week in May with a group hosted by Philip Goodband MW. Philip is a Master of Wine, the youngest ever to become one. In addition to serving as the Chairman of the Institutes of Wine, he also served the British Royal Family. (link)

Philip Goodband MW

After getting familiar with the beat of the tour and a few vineyards, I was so brave and foolish as to submit 10 questions to Philip to satisfy my curiosity and learning desire. He graciously answered them over the course of lunches and dinners throughout the week. Here they are:

10. What is the difference between a Master of Wine and a Sommelier?

Philip explained that both are difficult positions to attain.

Masters of Wine are more research oriented. They cover all branches of wine making. Many MWs are consultants to Vineyards. There are only ~420 MWs around the world. Philip was the youngest ever to become a Master of Wine at age 25. He is Master of Wine #100. The group was funny and asked him who #007 was!

In contrast, Sommaliers are trained primarily for hospitality. There are thousands of Sommaliers.

Tracy Dobbins is a also a Master of Wine and we met her at Chateau Decru-Beaucaillou.

9. Why do some people have allergies toward red wine, but not white wine?

Philip explained that red wine includes the skin during the vinification process. The skin has tannins and specifically sulphites that could potentially be the cause of the allergies that some people might experience. It also turns out that people from Eastern Asia could experience facial flushing when drinking wine beer or spirits due to an inherited deficiency in one of the enzymes involved in the breaking down of alcohol.

8. On a spectrum from bold to delicate, how do there grapes array?

I got this mostly right.

Syrah, Zinfandel, Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir.

I then asked about Sangiovese. And we placed it between the Cabernet and the Pinot.

We should have also covered white wines, which I meant to, but the conversation got away from us!

7. What is the difference between Burgundy and Bordeaux wines?

Bugundy is a smaller wine producing region compared to Bordeaux. In fact one could think that Burgundy is the size of one appellation within Bordeaux.

Burgundy mainly produces Pinot Noir wines. Bordeaux produces a mix of Merlot, Cabernet and other grape varietals.

Burgundy tends to be delicate. Bordeaux tends to be bolder.

Ever since the movie "Sideways," remarkably Pinot came to the fore and Merlot took a hit. As a result the price of Burgundy wines have sky rocketed. (Sideways movie scene dispraging merlot: link)

My tour through Burgundy in 1992

Bordeaux in 2023

6. Cap, Cork and other enclosures: Is it science or branding?

Recently wines have been served up in screw top bottles. It grew in volume due to the ease of bottling. However, bottlers have been backing away from this technique given that it has not been possible to seal the bottles as well and wineries have been rejecting batches from the bottlers.

Also corks used to contaminate the wine after a few years. However, Philip explained that the technology of corks has also been improving and that they don’t degrade as much anymore.

5. Who are 5 wine critics we can follow?

A. Jancis Mary Robinson. Writes for the Financial Times. Author of multiple books and maintains a website in her own name. Jancis is a Master of Wine. (link)

B. Lisa Perrotti-Brown. Writes for the Wine Advocate magazine and website. She worked for the legendary Robert Parker and after his retirement now managed the Wine Advocate for 13 years. Lisa is a Master of Wine. (link)

C. Tim Atkin. He is the editor of Off License News. He is also a Master of Wine. (link)

D. Antonio Galloni. CEO of Vinous, he is the lead critic covering winders of Bordeaux, CA, Italy and Champagne. (link)

E. James Suckling. Both a wine and a cigar critic. Senior Editor of Wine Spectator. (link)

With Raef at Pichon Baron in the Medoc AOC

4. What is the best book to read on wine that is introductory, fun and easy?

A. Windows on the world – Kevin Zraly

B. World Atlas of Wine – Jancis Robinson

C. Wine Simple – A Totally Approachable Guide – Aldo Aohm

D. Wine Bible – Kevin McNeil

3. For somebody starting new, what techniques can be use to come up the learning curve on the basics?

- Visit vineyards and take a tour

- Visit Institute of Wine website

- Take online courses at the Institute of Wine written by Philip himself. (link)

- Try for Level Is through IV in terms of Wine exams.

At Ducru Beaucaillou in the Medoc AOC

2. What is is about Bordeaux wine that allows these to last much longer in a bottle than other wines from around the world?

Other wines from around the word are beginning to age well and last longer as well.

But generally balance between fruit intensity, acidity and tannins is what allows for a wine to age well and long.

1.What are your favorite wines – or favorite stories about wine?

1961 Dom Perignon. Wine chosen for the toast at the wedding breakfast of Charles and Diana in 1981. Diana was born in 1961. (link)

1947 Bordeaux Cheval Blanc. A St. Emilion red wine. The years after WWII are considered fine vintage, especially 1947. Feared wine critic Anton Ego in the movie Ratatouille orders this wine and this vintage. (link)

1815 Waterloo Port. Sotheby’s auctioned it and Philip was asked to test and pour one of the bottles at the auction. He has this bottle at his home! (link)