Bumpy Road to Hampi

Guest Contributor

Raman Kolluri

A long time ago, in a sub-continent far away

Imagine a time before modern India born in 1947 AD.  A time before the British rule of the sub-continent for two hundred years from 1757 AD.  Even a time before that when the Mughals ruled for another two hundred years from 1526 AD.  That is nearly five hundred years ago.

What was the sub-continent like then?  Why were the Portuguese, Persians and Chinese interested in making their way past the high Himalayas and the great oceans to make their way and learn and trade with the sub-continent?

For over 60 years, with my 90 trips taking me all over the world, it was always in the back of my mind to make it to Hampi.  I could finally see it at the age of 81.

The road trip to Hampi from the modern metropolis of Hyderabad was a horrendous and bumpy 8-hour ride by car. The supposedly best hotel in Kamalapuram, the nearest village to Hampi where I stayed, was a rat hole and the food so bad that I fell terribly sick. I persisted anyway.

About Hampi

Hampi was the Capital City of the Vijayanagara Empire.  The Empire lasted three hundred years from ~1330-1630 AD.  At its peak it was the second most known medieval city in the world after Beijing.   Art, architecture, culture, trade flourished with visitors from all over the world.

Hampi today is about 16 square kilometers and is located in Karnataka state in the Tungabhadra basin.  It is this place of spectacular ruins of the Vijayanagara kingdom. The area is dominated by river, rocky hill ranges and open plains.  There are more than 1,600 surviving remains of the Empire which include temples, forts, royal and sacred complexes, pillared halls, Mandapas, gateways, stables and baths.  

It certainly reminded me of Angor Wat in Cambodia.

The Royal Viewing Platform – The Maharnavam Dibba

This is the tallest structure in the destroyed Royal Enclosure. From a distance this looks like an ordinary elevated square stage. It was the seat of Royal power during the height of Vijayanagara Empire. The entire upper wooden structure above this base was destroyed. Only the base remains now. 

The front entrance to this is highly decorated on both sides with carvings of elephants, horses and a host of other animals. The frescos on the walls are exquisitely carved with the royal ceremonies, the city life, foreign envoy's visits to the kingdom and the hunting scenes.

The kings used this platform to watch the army march-pasts, war games, aquatic sports, shows of the royal animals, musical performances and festivals. It was also the place where their most famous King Krishnadevaraya used to conduct the conferences of eminent poets, known as Bhuvana Vijayam.

Lotus Mahal

Lotus Mahal is one of the architecturally most beautiful buildings in Hampi. It was designed to look like a lotus. The balcony and the passages are covered with a dome that looks like an opened lotus bud. The central dome is also carved to look like a lotus bud.

This structure and many other structures such as the elephant stall and the octogonal baths in Hampi have incorporated elements of Islamic Architecture, representing a multi-religious and multi-ethnic society. The walls and pillars of this building are carved beautifully with patterns that look like sea creatures and birds. This building was designed for the royal ladies to mingle around and enjoy recreational activities. It also served as a meeting point for the king and his ministers

Kadalekalu Ganesha and Bazaars of Hampi

During the Vijayanagara Empire,there were 'bazaars', where  gems, pearls and precious metals as well as horses and pulses were sold. These bazaars can be considered as one of the earliest malls. 

As symbols of wealth and organizing capabilities of Vijayanagara Empire, remanents of these bazars can still be seen.

Temples

Virupaksha temple is the most important in Hampi and worship is continuously performed here ever since its construction. It is considered to be in existence since 7th century AD. Surrounding the temple, there are majestic entrance gateways, courtyards and pillared halls.

The Vittala Temple is located in the north eastern part of Hampi, near the banks of the Tungabhadra River. This temple is well-known for its exceptional architecture and unmatched craftsmanship. It is considered as the largest and the most famous structure in Hampi.

The main attraction of the temple is the Stone Chariot in the courtyard, which has the most stunning architecture. It is one of the three famous stone chariots in India. The other two are situated in Konark and Mahabalipuram.

Another great attraction here is the Ranga Mandapa which is architecturally, one of the most beautiful halls in this complex. This is renowned for its 56 musical pillars. The seven musical notes of Indian music emanate when the pillars are tapped gently.

Bumping along again!

As I was returning bumping and grinding along the roads back Hyderabad, sicker than even earlier, I was wondering whether, at my age, this trip was worthwhile.  

The answer is an emphatic YES.   No matter what difficulties I had to undertake during this journey, the spectacular architecture, the visual display of the glory of a great empire had more than compensated for my difficulties.

It was great to be alive and able to see this spectacular place. If I am to get another chance, I will do it again!